To Matemwe

Although the Tembo Hotel was a lovely place to stay, I’m not sorry to be leaving Stone Town. After the gentle kindness of the people we encountered in Tanzania I found the constant hussling here wearing and the disrepair of its attractions was the worst I have encountered. It’s depressing to see a place with such a rich – if controversial – history being left to fall into disrepair when so many livelihoods depend on tourism.

Driving to Matemwe there’s a chance to see the contrast between the landscape on Zanzibar and in mainland Tanzania. It’s more lush and green, tropical vegetation and many palms. Homes are similar apart from the apparent absence of Maasai villages. Ox-carts are the primary means of personal transport here, and cattle roam freely in ones and twos, unlike the Maasai herds. There are local minibuses, known as Matutus, adapted from pick-ups with bench seats along the sides and a simple roof; most are tightly packed, sometimes with somebody hanging on the back. Sloping wooden structures made from tree trunks, sometimes with a simple roof, appear to be bus stops.

We follow a tarmac road for about an hour before taking a dirt track to Sunshine Marine Lodge which is located north of the village of Matenwe. We are greeted with champagne flutes of tamarind juice. Emily thinks it tastes of stewed apple, and I agree. We have arrived earlier than expected and not all our rooms are ready, so we are taken on an orientation tour and then wait by the pool.

After a week of fabulous lodges in stunning locations, this manages to top them all. The two storey cabins are set in lush tropical gardens and there are 3 pools including an infinity pool overlooking the ocean. When we get to our room we find the bed has been sprinkled with bougainvillea blossoms.

The lodge is located at the top of a small cliff and there’s only a tiny strip of beach below, accessible at low tide. But it has a private beach just up the coast that can be reached by road or boat in 10 minutes; it’s also possible to walk or borrow a mountain bike at low tide. There’s only a simple bar there but we can order food here and they will drive it down for us – Zanzibari deliveroo!

We decide to have lunch there and Mervyn and Chloe join us. We’re advised to wear diving shoes due to sea urchins; the 25 minute walk is mainly rocky with pools containing fish and crabs as well as the sea urchins. It’s a stunning piece of coastline with rocky outcrops eroded to form exotic shapes and small caves, fine white sand and picturesque boats. On the horizon is Mnemba island, an exclusive resort.

We reach the private beach and have a drink at the bar while they prepare our table; our food follows around 30 minutes later. We don’t stay long as we have to get back before high tide. The afternoon is spent by, and in, the pool before unpacking and getting ready for dinner. I wander back to the jetty to look at the view and notice a crowd has gathered; Chloe tells me some people got stranded by the incoming tide and had to be rescued and now it seems there may be somebody in difficulty in the water. I go back to get my camera and use the zoom lens as a telescope – there is somebody clinging to an upturned boat on the reef. We watch and worry as a boat approaches and somebody swims out with a lifebuoy, but the boat can’t approach to pick the people up because of the reef. Eventually it speeds off and returns on the right side of the reef, and the rescue is accomplished. Two scuba divers are brought to our lodge and wrapped in towels. They don’t appear to be especially traumatised, but it’s a reminder that this beautiful country is still wild enough to be dangerous.

Before dinner we sit in the gallery above the bar and admire the view. The restaurant has open sides and heavy hardwood furniture; we’re surprised by warm focaccia with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. The menu includes pasta and salads as well as the normal chicken and chips and features surprising touches like home-made feta.